Does anyone live on big diomede
We slide about two to six centimeters a year. Little Diomede is one of the few places in the U. Here, Ed Soolok tied an auklet to a decoy line by its beak. This lures other birds to the area for hunting. Thawing permafrost has wreaked havoc on parts of Alaska—cracking foundations, roads, pipes and even trees across the state.
But, for Little Diomede, the most pressing problem lays just off-shore, in the ice. Or rather, the lack thereof. And Robert Soolook notes that even the ice that is there is not as thick as it used to be. One consequence of this change is that the island no longer has an ice runway in the winter, which had provided significantly more reliable and frequent access to the mainland than the occasional helicopter flight. It can also lead to more damaging storms, says Brenda Ekwurzel , the director of climate science at the Union of Concerned Scientists.
As it disappears, she says, so do those defenses. Our visit came in summer, when the weather on Little Diomede is relatively calm. The constant wind and mid degree July temperatures were about as good as conditions get there.
And, in mid-summer, the Arctic light extends well past midnight. For a community dependent on subsistence hunting-gathering, that means little rest. Ozenna works with Robert Soolook at the tribal offices during the day and then heads out to gather fresh greens on the far side of the island until late into the evening.
And she is not alone. Still others scramble up the hillside to swoop aucklets out of the sky with hand-made nets. The ultimate prize, though, is walrus. They drift past dozens at a time, eyeing the shoreline for potential rocks to rest on.
When the first walruses come through, the entire community gathers and collectively tries to call them toward shore. Indigenous communities in Alaska are allowed to hunt walrus for their own use; and traditionally, every bit of the animal—down to the sinew—gets used. The deep-throated grunts do the trick, and the walruses turn toward the concrete slab at the center of town where the helicopter lands locals call it the heliopad.
When the animals draw close, the men grab their guns and take aim. Ed Soolook is among those out front. Lifting the sight of the gun to his eye, he takes the first shot. A miss—the herd scatters. This subsistence cycle repeats on Little Diomede, one day often blurring into the next. But, across weeks and months, the changes here are hard to miss, locals say.
Walrus come more sporadically than before, the seal hunting season is shorter, and the polar bears are relatively scarce. As a whole, the ecosystem—and thus life—there, and around the Arctic, seems in flux. It's becoming a much more unpredictable environment. But that can leave traditional communities in a tough place. On July 29th, a welcome break from the routine comes as the Russians land on the heliopad—five days behind schedule—to a crowd of their kin.
Bracing against the wind from the helicopter blades, the Soolooks embrace their cousins and shout inaudible greetings. The next few days are filled with a cacophony of song and food. Fermented walrus stew, seal, cake—the works. It is one of the most remote and isolated settlements in the US. Until the Cold War, families lived on both islands, criss-crossing back and forth.
In , the border was suddenly closed and the relatives separated by what became known as the Ice Curtain. Those living on the Russian island were forcibly resettled onto the Siberian mainland. Robert Soolook, a tribal leader of Little Diomede, is determined to see the families reunited. He spoke to BBC News about what life is like on his island.
Even in order to prepare food or to wash, you had to melt dozens of tonnes of snow. No television, no newspapers, no telephone. Constant chores, service duties, a bath once a week. Every day was the same - it was like Groundhog Day," Gumerov recalls. Now, he says, a lot has changed for the better. Only contract soldiers serve in the military unit and they have bottled water, TV, telephones, and "other benefits of civilization. Incidentally, I haven't regretted once that I ended up there.
I was lucky. Where else would I have seen dog sleds, reindeer, thousands of birds on high rocks, cranes flying to Eurasia in the spring and back to America in the autumn, orcas chasing walruses, whales, polar foxes, and polar bears? And all of it in the wild, all for real. Maritime vessels. The northern lights in the winter and white nights in the summer. I also went to Kamchatka. I saw Russia when I was taken by train from Ufa to Khabarovsk. It was a special place where many things intersect.
I became a different person there. If using any of Russia Beyond's content, partly or in full, always provide an active hyperlink to the original material. This website uses cookies. Click here to find out more.
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